Kiwi
20 July 1919 – 11 January 2008 Known for: Being the first person to reach the summit of Mt. Everest on 29 May 1953 along with Tenzing Norgay Sherpa Serving in the Royal New Zealand Air Force as a navigator during World War II Serving as New Zealand's High Commissioner to India and Bangladesh and concurrently as Ambassador to Nepal from 1985 to 1988. Founder of Himalayan Trust, a charity institution responsible for the development of schools, health centres, and airport in Khumbu, Nepal Being knighted by Queen of England for valiant works in mountaineering and recipient of several accolades Being the first person to reach all three poles of the world, the north, south and Everest Organizing an expedition in search of Yeti in 1956 in Everest Notable climbs: Everest, 8848m 10 adjacent peaks in the Himalayas Hillary died of a heart failure in Auckland City Hospital and received a state funeral in New Zealand. In his tribute, the Lukla Airport was renamed as Tenzing-Hillary Airport. A newly discovered mountain range in Pluto was named after him as Hillary Montes. Picture Source: DW
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Nepali
29 May 1914 – 9 May 1986 Known for: Being one of the first two individuals to reach the summit of Mt. Everest on 29 May 1953 Recipient of George medal for his contributions in the Everest summit and recipient of the Queen Elizabeth II Coronation Medal Recipient of the Order of the Star of Nepal by King Tribhuvan in 1953 Recipient of Padma Bhusan by Government of India in 1959 Becoming the first Director of Field Training of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling Founder of Tenzing Norgay Adventures in 1978, a company providing trekking adventures in the Himalayas The highest-known, 3.4-kilometre-high (11,000 ft) mountain range on the dwarf planet Pluto was named Tenzing Montes Notable climbs: Everest, 8848m Photo Credit: Mpora Additional read: Tenzing Norgay Sherpa
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Italian
17 September 1944 Known for: Being the first mountaineer to summit all 14 eight-thousanders His climbs were also all amongst the first 20 ascents for each mountain individually Becoming the first climber to summit all peaks of the 7-summit First person to cross Antarctica and Greenland without sledges or snowmobiles and Gobi desert alone Recipient of the Genius World Records 9 times; First ascent of Manaslu without supplementary oxygen First solo summit of Everest First ascent of Everest and K2 without supplementary oxygen – male First ascent of the top three highest mountains without supplementary oxygen – male First 8,000-metre mountain hat-trick First person to climb all 8,000-metre mountains without supplementary oxygen First person to climb all 8,000-metre mountains First ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen First ascent of Gasherbrum I without supplementary oxygen Notable Climbs: All 14 highest peaks of the world All 7 highest peaks of each continent McKinley, 6193 Aconcagua, 6959 Kilimanjaro, 5895 Ama Dablam, 6812 Dolomites Ortler Grandes Jorasses Agnér Furchetta Heiligkreuzkofel Marmolada Andes Droites Yerupaja and a lot more prominent peaks all around the world After losing 7 of his toes due to frostbite, the legendary mountaineer since 1970 has been focusing on big mountains of ice blocks and without much rocks. Picture Source and Additional Read: Wikipedia
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British
18 June 1886 – 8 or 9 June 1924 Known for: Serving the British Army in the First World War Being the first person to make the first ascent of the world's highest mountain, Everest in which his team achieved a record altitude of 26,980 ft (8,225 m) without supplemental oxygen A very athletic persona plus a mathematics prodigy at his youth Ascended Pillar Rock in the English Lake District, with no assistance, by what is now known as "Mallory's Route"— considered to be amongst the hardest routes Britain for many years, graded Severe 5a (American). A remarkable member of the 1924 British Mt. Everest Expedition who at this point remains talked on whether he summited the mountain before the accident losing his life. Notable climbs: Everest, 8848m; reached 8225m (rumoured to have summited) before missing and death, body recovered in 1999 Mont Vélan, 3727m; returned shortly due to altitude sickness Mont Blanc, 4808m During the 1924 expedition, Mallory and his climbing partner, Andrew "Sandy" Irvine, disappeared on the northeast ridge of Everest. The pair were last seen when they were about 800 vertical feet (245 m) from the summit. Mallory's ultimate fate was unknown for 75 years until his body was discovered on 1 May 1999 by an expedition that had set out to search for the climbers' remains. Whether Mallory and Irvine reached the summit before they died remains a subject of speculation and continuing research. Till this date, testified by Edmund Hillary, Mallory is considered as one of the pioneers of modern mountaineering and a great academician. Picture Credit: dailymail.co.uk
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Italian
4 December 1925 – 20 November 2009 Known for: Being one of the first two individuals to reach the summit of K2 with Achille Compagnoni on 31 July 1954 Being known for fast ascents of difficult routes, including: the Constantini-Apollonio South Face on the Pilastro di Rozes, Italy Recipient of Italy's highest honour, Knight of the Grand Cross Author of book K2: The Price of Conquest Notable climbs: K2, 8611 Image Source: PlanetMountain Additional Read: Lino Lacedeli
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French
15 January 1919 – 13 December 2012 Known for: Leader and summiteer of the first 8000m peak expedition, Annapurna I (8091m) in 1950 Author of the best selling book of the expedition, "Annapurna" in 1952 Climbed Annapurna without supplemental oxygen Became the French Minister of Youth and Sport from 1958 to 1963 Became mayor of the alpine town of Chamonix-Mont-Blanc Also the member of International Olympic Committee for 25 years from 1970, and has an honorary member after 1995 Notable climbs: Annapurna, 8091m Photo Credit: CNN Additional Read: Maurice Herzog
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British
6 August 1934 Known for: Being the first British to ascent the North Wall of the Eiger, first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine, leader of the successful Annapurna South Face Expedition, leader of the first successful Southwest Face of Everest Expedition, first ascent of The Ogre, first ascent of Kongur, his own successful ascent of Mount Everest, and the first British ascent of Mount Vinson. Leading the expedition that made the first ascent of The South Face of Annapurna, the biggest and most difficult climb in the Himalaya at the 70s. Leading the successful expedition, making the first ascent of the South-West Face of Everest in 1975 and then reaching the summit of Everest himself in 1985 with a Norwegian expedition. Being the author of 17 books fronting numerous television programs, mountaineering journalist, photographer and has lectured to the public and corporate audiences all over the world. Receiving a knighthood in 1996 for services to mountaineering, was president of the Council for National Parks for 8 years and is currently Non-Executive Chairman of Berghaus. Notable Climbs: Eiger Central Tower of Paine Annapurna South Face Everest South Face The Ogre Kongur Vinson Annapurna II Aoraki/ Mt. Cook Nuptse … and a lot more At the age of 86, the veteran mountaineer still is hard at it today! Additional Read: www.bonington.comPicture Credit: mountainsforthemind
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Mexican
4 October 1962 Known for: First Latin American and fourth (first non-europian) and second youngest person in the world to ascend the 14 Eight-Thousanders (1996). Being the fourth man and the second youngest to conquer all of them without supplementary oxygen The first man to reach 4 peaks of more than eight thousand meters high without oxygen tanks in the same season First world ascent (1985, at age 22) to the Southeast Pillar of Nanga Parbat (8,125m), on the wall of Rupal, the largest rock and ice precipice in the world, a route that could not be repeated. Unique in climbing 7 of the peaks of over 8 thousand meters alone, 2 of them by new routes of high technical difficulty. First to establish new Vertical Mountaineering routes on the Great Walls of Baffin Island, in the Arctic Circle. Combined alpinism and paragliding and has performed Paralpinism in the Alps and Himalayan Mountains. Notable Climbs: All 14 highest peaks of the world Made summit of Makalu, Cho Oyu, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Dhaulagiri and Broad peak by climbing solo In 1992 he founded Carsolio Empresarial, the first experiential training centre in Mexico, a company that has served more than 70,000 participants from 500 of the country's main companies and institutions and developed 9 innovative Business Simulators® with High Impact Experiential Challenges® that are They adapt to the requirements of each work team. A prolific mountaineer has now turned into an experienced instructor who owns and operates Escalódromo® whose 1,300-meter square climbing area welcomes children and adults to learn the fascinating world of climbing. Additional Read: http://carsolio.com.mx/ccarlos.html Picture Credit: Smart Speakers
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French
17 July 1921 – 25 November 1955 Known for: One of the first two mountaineers to climb a summit of more than 8,000 meters for the first time (Annapurna I, 8091m). Having frozen feet to be amputated, still kept going on ascents. In particular, he undertook to climb in a single day, three routes considered difficult (East Crocodile ridge, East face of Caïman, Ryan au Plan route) Notable climbs: Annapurna I, 8091m North face of Eiger, 3967m He died falling into a snow-covered crevasse while skiing the Vallee Blanche in Chamonix. The mountain Pointe Lachenal in the Mont Blanc massif was named after him. Photo Credit and Additional Read: Babelio- Louis Lachenal & Louis Lachenal
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Nepali
27 July 1948 – 21 September 2020 Known for: Most successful ascents of Mt. Everest without bottled oxygen (10 times) The only person to climb Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen in winter Notable climbs: Everest, 8848m K2, 8611, Ch0-Oyu, 8188m Lhotse, 8516m Manaslu, 8163m Annapurna, 8091m Dhaulagiri, 8167m Died at his daughter's residence in Kathmandu, his funeral was honoured with national flag and offered tribute with a gun salute. Photo Credit: The Himalayan Times Additional Read: Ang Rita Sherpa
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Australian
26 December 1961 Known for: Being the only Australian to climb all fourteen 8000-meter peaks, resulting in him to be honoured with the medal of the Order of Australia. Climbing 13 of the 14 without using bottled oxygen, only using it on Mount Everest, which he has summited twice. Being the first Australian to lead a commercial expedition to the summit of Mt Everest. Performing solo ascents on four of the 8000-meter peaks and is also notable for his alpine-style climbing in very small teams, mostly climbing without even Sherpa support and bottled oxygen. Accomplishing 18 individual ascents of 8000-metre peaks, with double ascents of Mt Everest, Cho-Oyu and Shishapangma Central Holding a bachelor’s degree in Social Science (Emergency Management) Being Australian of the Year nominee in 2010 and the Adventurer of the Year in 2009 and 2010 and has also been awarded twice with the Mount Everest medal by the Government of Nepal. Being a professional corporate speaker and is a regular speaker at charity events, also the official ambassador for Scouts Australia, the Sir David Martin Foundation and the Australian Himalayan Foundation. Being the author of books “Summit 8000” and “Master of Thin Air” which relates to his amazing journey of climbing the fourteen 8000-metre peaks. Notable ascents: All 14 highest peaks of the world Andrew Lock is not just a mountaineer. Besides being the only member of the British Commonwealth to have climbed all fourteen of the world’s 8000 metre – death zone – mountains and being the first Australian to lead a commercial expedition to the summit of Mt Everest, he has led over 100 exploratory, research and remote area teams to every continent on earth, for private entities, government and the corporate sector. Additionally, he has worked in both State and Federal public sectors, emergency services, military and the private sector. Additional Read and Pic: https://andrew-lock.com/
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Nepali
June 16, 1978 Known for: Being the first person from Nepal and the first South Asian to scale all 14 of the world's highest mountains Mingma Sherpa, along with his brother, Chhang Dawa Sherpa, holds the world record of "World's First Two Brothers" to successfully summit the 14 mountains above 8,000 meters Climbed all 8000-meter peaks without supplement oxygen except Mt. Lhotse Record holder of being the first climber to summit all 14 eight-thousanders in single (first) attempt Chairperson of Seven Summit Treks, successful trekking and expedition company with world-wide operations based in Nepal Notable climbs: All 14 eight-thousanders Pic Source and Additional Read: Mingma Sherpa
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Italian
27 October 1967 Known for: Being the first climber to winter ascent four of the eight-thousanders, SishaPangma, Makalu, Gasherbrum II and Nanga Parbat Being an experienced helicopter pilot with most rescues actions undertaken in the mountains Being record holder of world's highest long-line rescue operation on a helicopter, on Lhotse, at 7800m with two other rescue experts Projecting and financing school for 396 Sherpa children in the Nepalese village of Syadul, Nepal in 2003 Financing and building a small masonry building for local shepherds and a small hospital in the village of Ser, Gilgit Baltistan (at the base of K2) Author of famous books on experiential mountaineering; Nanga: Fra rispetto e pazienza come ho corteggiato la montagna che chiamavano assassina The Call Of Ice: Climbing 8000-Meter Peaks in Winter I sogni non sono in discesa Notable climbs: Everest, 8848m K2, 8611m Kanchenjunga 8586m Lhotse, 8516 Makalu, 8485m Cho-Oyu, 8188m Nanga Parbat, 8126m Broad Peak, 8047m Gasherbrum II, 8034m Sishapangma, 8027m Aconcagua, 6961m Kilimanjaro, 5895m Elbrus, 5642m and many prominent peaks of the Himalayas and around the world. Being one of the professional and dedicated mountaineers of modern times, Moro is a humble and generous mountaineer.
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